Showing posts with label Savile Row. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Savile Row. Show all posts
Saturday, March 17, 2018
Top of the Mornin!
The last two weeks have been hellish on the Cape. Back-to-back Nor'easters socked us with snow and winds topping 80 m.p.h. Two power outages later, we're back in business. Today is St. Patrick's Day, the sun is shining, and all's well with the world!
Liam, that dapper Irish gent from my Savile Row series, and I wish you all a Happy St. Patrick's Day!
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Cute as a button (or two, or three....)

I'm doing a happy dance--Geoffrey is finally finished!
Smart dresser that he is, Geoffrey is sporting a springy striped tie worked in basketweave and tent stitches with DMC Satin Floss #SB5200 and #S552. His pocket handkerchief was worked in a diagonal mosaic stitch with DMC Satin Floss #S552.
Yesterday, I finally made it to the local fabric store in search of buttons, and hit a bonanza. I'd been dissatisfied with my attempts to stitch buttons for Geoffrey's vest--neither the stitches nor the threads approached the look I was aiming for. Problem solved! I found these wonderful teeny buttons at the fabric store, and actually managed to sew them on straight. His weathered gray coat buttons blend in nicely with the gray of his chalk-striped jacket.
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Still plugging along

At long last, Geoffrey's vest is finished. He doesn't have any buttons for the vest yet--I need to do some button shopping for his coat, and want the two styles to be compatible. But at least you can now get the full effect of the houndstooth pattern.
I've also finished his shirt, continuing the tone-on-tone striped pattern from the collar, using three plies of white DMC floss.
I shipped out a trunk show today to Old World Designs in Menlo Park, California (www.oldworlddesigns.com), which will extend from February 4 through February 25. So with not much remaining to be stitched on Geoffrey, I'm hoping to be able to finish him pretty quickly!
Monday, January 23, 2012
Collared!

I was snowed in yesterday, so spent all morning and much of the afternoon painting canvases. But in between the Patriots-Ravens playoff (yeah!) and the Giants-'49ers game (boo!), I managed to finish Geoffrey's coat.
After working a little more on his vest, it became clear that this gentleman needed a crisp, white shirt! The collar was worked with three plies of white DMC floss in rows of basketweave three threads wide, alternating with a row of stem stitches.
I still have a fair amount of stitching to do, but I think I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel!
Saturday, January 21, 2012
A little more progress

Poor Geoffrey--his mother seems to be taking her good, sweet time getting him dressed! I finally squeezed in a little stitching time last night, so I thought I'd post another wardrobe update.
One lapel of his coat is now finished. What I thought would be a satin stitch filler actually turned out to be a vertical diagonal cashmere stitch because of the placement of the stripes. When I started working on the lapel on the right, I turned the canvas 90 degrees and began stitching a horizontal diagonal cashmere stitch.
Just for fun, I also started filling in the houndstooth pattern on his vest, using DMC floss #413 in basketweave. It's a darker thread than the Vineyard Silk Classic "Heron" used on his coat, so it stands out nicely. It's back to painting for me now, but maybe tonight I'll have a chance to rendevous with Geoffrey again!
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
A little here, a little there

I really have been pretty diligent in working on Geoffrey's wardrobe in the last few days--just not so diligent about taking progress photos!
I've established the pattern for Geoffrey's coat--a chalk stripe--using Vineyard Silk Classic "Heron" in vertical slanted gobelin stitches over three threads, alternating with a vertical row of tent stitches using Vineyard Silk Classic "Bright White." I've stitched the white stripes on one of the lapels, too, but need to decide how to fill in the gray. The stripes on the lapels are oriented on the diagonal since the fabric for this part of the coat is cut on the bias.
Geoffrey's trousers have been stitched, too, with Vineyard Silk Classic "Pewter" in slanted gobelin stitches over two threads alternating with a row of tent stitches.
His outfit may be looking a bit monochromatic at this point, but I'm hoping to add a little "zing" with my treatment of his accessories! And no, I still haven't added the houndstooth pattern to his vest. I wanted to get the larger elements "set in stone" first--grays can be funny, tending either to overtones of blue or brown, and getting part of the coat and trousers finished will make it easier for me to choose just the right secondary shade for the vest.
Friday, January 13, 2012
A vested interest

Each night this week, I've been working a little on Geoffrey, beginning with his houndstooth vest, or waistcoat. This part of his wardrobe is a scaled-down version of his friend Neville's vest (right), worked in mosaic stitches with DMC #5 perle cotton. Because Geoffrey is one-quarter the size of Neville, his houndstooth pattern was reduced to tent stitches.Like the edging for Neville's vest, Geoffrey's was worked in DMC #5 perle cotton--#415--in diagonal oblong cross stitches over two threads, but the body was stitched in basketweave. Because there are a lot of stops and starts in stitching around the darker areas, I approached this as if I were stitching around letters in a canvas with a name--a stocking cuff, for instance--or with a saying. When I reach an area with darker areas, I simply skip over them to the next lighter thread to be stitched--it makes for a smoother basketweave surface this way. Four plies of DMC floss #415 were used for the background, giving a lighter-weight appearance to Geoffrey's vest while maintaining the look of a "hard" finish.
I need to go back now to fill in the houndstooth pattern itself--stay tuned!
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Savile Row: The Spring Line

Where have I been for the past week? Well, painting mostly, in preparation for a trunk show next month at Old World Designs in Menlo Park, California. But I've also been noodling a new design for the Savile Row series--something a little lighter and brighter for spring, but just as dapper as the gents sporting their woolies.
If any of you read the September/October 2011 issue of Needlepoint Now, you may recognize the outfit on the fellow pictured here. I used Neville, an 11-inch-square design, in that issue to illustrate how easy it can be to replicate fabrics and patterns in needlepoint using simple threads and stitches. Geoffrey, the gentleman I'm introducing today, is a scaled-down version of Neville--only 5-1/2 inches square.
Because he's only one-quarter the size of Neville, Geoffrey needed to have the pattern for his houndstooth waistcoat resized, using tent stitches rather than the mosaic stitches worked in the original design. I also hope to use some different threads from the original in order to mimic lighter-weight fabrics.
I suspect progress on Geoffrey will be a bit slow, as I'm back in paint-by-day, stitch-by-night mode, but do come back to visit--I'm hoping Geoffrey will be as sartorially splendid as his friends!
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Cecil steps out!

One more dapper gentleman joins the Savile Row series--Cecil is finally finished!
Cecil is the first in the series to sport a bow tie, which I wanted to appear as 3-D as possible. Using Vineyard Silk Classic "Berry," I first satin-stitched each of the three sections of the tie--but in the wrong direction! For the left and center portions, I turned the canvas 90 degrees and kept the canvas in the upright position for the right side. I then went back and satin-stitched each section again so the stitches for the left side and knot are slanted from bottom left to top right, with the right side slanted in the opposite direction. Padding the stitches in this way gives the tie a nice high profile against his pink shirt.
His pocket handkerchief was worked in a diagonal mosaic stitch with DMC floss #3865, a creamy white which blends better with his sweater. His belt buckle was worked in stem stitches with Kreinik #12 tapestry braid #001L. At my local fabric store, I found some antique silver buttons for his coat.
I see a trip to the framer's in my future, so Nigel, Liam, Oliver and Cecil can hang out together!
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
'Tis the season....

....when I find myself wearing too many hats at one time! DH keeps mentioning decorating the house for the holidays, and I keep giving him a dirty look.
But Cecil is on the home stretch now, thankfully. His trousers have been added, using Trio "Caviar" in alternating rows of slanted gobelin stitch over two canvas threads and tent stitches. His pale pink shirt--yes, pink! I couldn't resist!--was stitched in basketweave with three plies of DMC cotton floss #818, with a vertical row of slanted gobelin stitches over three canvas threads for the placket.
On a recent trip to my LNS, I found the perfect thread for his scarf: Watercolours "Cinnabar." It's a slightly variegated thread , in just the right weight so the scarf stands out against the adjacent sweater and coat. I've worked it in a Nobuko stitch, with looped turkey work for the fringe. The shadow between the drape and longer expanse of the scarf was worked in tent stitches with DMC floss #3685.
Let's see: I still need to stitch the tie, pocket handkerchief, and belt buckle, but I need to find a minute to shop for buttons before working the buckle. Let it never be said that Cecil's wardrobe isn't totally coordinated!
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Well coated
Thursday, December 1, 2011
A sweater for Cecil

It's amazing how much stitching you can accomplish riding in a car for three hours!
On the trip to Boston's airport the other day, I started work on Cecil's sweater, using Sheep's Silk "Ivory." The edging along the V neck was worked in oblong cross stitches over two canvas threads, while the ribbing along the hem was done in a Kalem stitch.
The body of the sweater was stitched in braided knitting alternating with a vertical row of tent stitches. To make sure the "cables" ended uniformly along the ribbing, I turned the canvas 90 degrees to begin each row of braided knitting.
A few more hours of stitching back home finished the sweater, so I treated myself by completing the Scotch stitches in Felicity's Garden "Granite" on the right side of the coat.
Monday, November 28, 2011
Reinventing the wheel AND a blog birthday


Sometimes, the best-laid plans go awry. Such was the case with Cecil's coat, with a windowpane pattern. The windowpane is usually woven into a tweed, which is what I was aiming for. In the photo at left, you can see where I'd started stitching the right-hand side of the coat with the skip-tent technique. Every other canvas thread was stitched with Trio "Natural," with Trio "Black" to follow. Well, the black followed--and created a concentric circle pattern which was definitely NOT what I was expecting. I didn't bother to take a photo--I hate to see grown people cry--or cringe!
While probably more suitable for the coat of a snake-oil salesman, you may actually see this concentric circle pattern eventually on another garment--it's totally neat, but more Carnaby Street than Savile Row--and also for something like a dressing gown or fancy vest.
What to do? Why, paint another canvas, of course! The photo on the right is my second--and final--attempt. I've worked it in a Scotch stitch with Felicity's Garden "Granite," which will later be framed with tent stitches.
I actually started stitching both canvases with the black lapels, belt, pocket flap and buttonholes. No, I'm not totally crazy--I'm familiar enough with black Petite Very Velvet to know its occasional quirks. I've found that approximately one out of four cards of this thread will produce copious fuzz. I tried a little the first time and that was the case, so I kept stitching all the black and, when I was finished, gave the whole canvas a good brushing. Goodbye, black flecks--which would have loved lodging themselves in the soft threads of Trio "Natural" that I used the first time for the top of the sweater vest.
Having pretty much depleted my stash of Trio "Natural," I'll need to switch to another thread to work the sweater, which abuts the coat and must be finished before I can go back to the windowpane pattern.
A Blog Birthday
Tomorrow will mark the beginning of the fourth year of The Cape Stitcher. I'll be on the road early, taking No. 1 son to the airport for his trip back to Kansas--sigh. So I wanted to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have visited from time to time, watching my progress in stitching painted canvases. If you enjoy reading about my explorations in needlepoint half as much as I do pursuing them, my time is well spent!
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Another man in my life

The Savile Row series began as an exercise in duplicating patterns and fabrics using simple needlepoint stitches. So far I've stitched tweed coats, sweaters imitating Argyle, Aran and fair isle patterns, and a hounds-tooth waistcoat.
The fourth entry in the series is Cecil, another dapper gent who's a bit more of a dandy than his friends. Cecil is dressed in a sweater vest or jumper, as folks across the pond would call it, with a bow tie and a windowpane-patterned coat.
Do come back and check my progress as I bring Cecil to life!
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Just in time for Thanksgiving!

As holiday season approaches, one's work schedule often gets knocked into a cocked hat, but I'm happy to report Oliver is ready for Thanksgiving!
To finish his fair isle sweater, I needed to choose a red thread that was neither too bright nor too somber. The winner was Trio "Bordeaux," what I'd call a cherry red, which brightened the sweater considerably.
I'd toyed with the idea of adding a small figural design to his tie and handkerchief, but after finishing the sweater realized that would make the whole piece too busy. I stitched these two areas in a solid lighter cherry red--DMC Satin Floss S326--providing a little bit of pattern by working them in a diagonal mosaic stitch. The canvas was turned 90 degrees to work the knot, then returned to the upright position to stitch the longer expanse of the tie and the handkerchief. I find using two strands of the satin floss doubled in the needle gives me better control of this shiny but somewhat slippery thread.
As a final touch, I sewed on some silver filigree buttons--pretty nifty, don't you think? Oliver is now ready to party, and joins me in wishing all of you a Happy Thanksgiving!
Monday, November 21, 2011
More stitch guide news


Several people have contacted me, asking about the availability of canvases in the Savile Row series. Since these canvases are partially line-drawn and partially painted, I decided stitch guides would be helpful to accompany them. This is especially true for Liam, whose Aran sweater would benefit from a diagram showing stitch placement.
The good news is, Sue Dulle (www.sudukc.wordpress.com) has stepped up to the plate to create some stitch guides for me! She did such a fabulous job on the guide for the ring-bearer pillow, I knew she could work out some diagrams for me with one hand tied behind her back.
Liam's guide is already finished, and Nigel's is in the works. There will be a guide for Oliver, too, as soon as I've finished stitching him--I'm almost there, I promise! And one more dapper gentleman will make up the quartet that I hope to have framed together in time for my first trunk show of 2012!
Saturday, November 19, 2011
A little here, a little there

Oliver continues to warm up a little at a time! I finally finished the "Classic Navy" Trio part of the skip-tent stitch for his coat, but will need to add the white for the canvas threads I'd previously skipped.
I've also made some progress on his fair isle sweater, although it's slow going since all of the stitching is in basketweave. I'm using Impressions #1072 for the light gray background, the same white and navy Trio that forms the tweed in the coat, and Felicity's Garden "Granite" for the darker gray.
Those of you waiting anxiously for the tie will, unfortunately, have to wait a bit longer. I need to choose just the right shade of red for the sweater first, since his tie needs to be color-coordinated with the rest of his wardrobe. I will, however, try to stitch a little faster over the weekend!
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Moving right along

I knew it was only a matter of time before I gave in to the temptation of working on Oliver's sweater!
I first trimmed his coat at the pocket and buttonholes with Petite Very Velvet. Then it was time for his pin-striped trousers, worked in Vineyard Silk Classic "Pewter" in vertical rows of slanted gobelin stitch over two threads and alternating with single rows of tent stitch.
Next I stitched his shirt, using four strands of white DMC cotton floss in basketweave two threads wide. To keep the navy pin-stripes from overpowering the shirt, I plied down to two strands of DMC floss #823 to work the stem stitches.
The ribbing at the collar and hem of his sweater was worked in a Kalem stitch using Impressions #1072. I'll be using this thread to fill in the background of the sweater in basketweave before I start to add the colors in the fair isle pattern.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Slow going

I've been dividing my time between two gentlemen lately: painting Nigel by day and stitching Oliver by night. Poor Oliver has definitely pulled the short straw, but I decided to show my progress on his coat so you wouldn't think I'd been slacking off!
The right side of the coat is finished, now that the white Trio has been added to the "Classic Navy" in the skip-tent stitch. You can see from the left side of the coat, where a little white has been stitched, how adding the white thread brightens the tweed immensely.
I think the coat will make a nice frame for the fair isle sweater, which is the focal point of this design. I'll try to be very good and get some more details done before starting in on the sweater. This afternoon is the monthly meeting of our local needlework group, so I'm hoping to get some serious stitching done!
Sunday, November 13, 2011
A coat for Oliver

I'm back in a paint-by-day, stitch-by-night mode these days, but preliminary work on Oliver has actually gone quite quickly.
For this canvas, I decided to change my usual order of stitching, working on Oliver's coat first. The Chesterfield coat has traditional velvet lapels, worked in Petite Very Velvet V642 in basketweave.
The body of the coat is being worked in a skip-tent stitch technique with Trio "Classic Navy" and "White." I've tent-stitched every other canvas thread using the navy, and filled in previously skipped threads with the white around the area of Oliver's pocket handkerchief.
So far, so good! I'll work a little more on the coat before moving on to the trousers.
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